Excerpts from our Travel Book
Beijing (previously Peking) is a fascinating city. It was possibly named after the Peking Duck, or vice-versa, I am not sure. Anyway, it is the capitol of China and now it is called Beijing. It has a Dallas skyline, mixed with centuries old palaces of Chinese emperors and their concubines, hutongs (old neighborhoods), and Mao Tse Tung, forever pickled in the Tiannamen Square. All this splendor is guarded by humongous Foo Dogs everywhere. Beijing also has fabulous (and less fabulous) hotels and wonderful markets full of Maxx Mara, Gucci, Versace, Prada, Dolce & Gabana, and their indistinguishable imitations. It is a great city where the US dollar is still respected and can be spent with joy.
Of course one has to get used to Chinese ways. Without dear Vivian, it was the first venture for Yvonne and me to this Oriental Heaven. The cultural shock hit us as early as we arrived to our reserved "five star hotel in great location, with pool, restaurant, bar, and high speed Internet connection." True, the location was great. It was right above the night market full of fried snakes, innards, bugs, and other goodies. Of course, if you can get past the stench, you may discover some enjoyable treats.
The whole hotel was a nightmare. We did not even have a window to watch the snakes at the night market! The sign in the bathroom warned us "don't flush the toilet paper as the toilet will flood" and the shower was a hole in the bathroom. We showered in house slippers and left them there to enjoy for the next occupant. The room did not have a closet, only a coat rack. The bar, the pool, and other amenities of the hotel were fantasy.
We were prepaid for ten nights.
As soon as we recovered from perils of the travel and the initial shock, we headed to search for more appropriate lodging. Thanks to a combination of events, people and good fortune, we found
a luxurious hotel three blocks away. Not only that, we got our money back from the Chinese agency which booked our first hotel. The new room did not cost us more than the old one. They even included a wonderful breakfast.
Now that you call good luck. Maybe the Foo Dogs did it.
I don't want to upstage the Frommer's Bible, but here are some useful things one needs to know when visiting Beijing:
1. Never go to Beijing (Peking) in the dead of the winter. It is in proximity of Siberia and you will be freezing. You will run to the market and purchase a cashmere coat or parka from Maxx Mara, Prada, Dolce & Cabana, etc. etc. etc., for price of the lunch in US, and you will be very sad. You may even need a matching purse (and shoes) which will really bring tears to your eyes.
2. Book hotel in China only for one night; then look around. Even Uncle Frommer says so. Don't believe everything you read on Internet. The Internet is worse than any television evangelist.
3. Make friends with Pakistani rug dealers (even if they are drug dealers) as they know where the good hotels are. Just don't give them your room number and don't let them call you "baby".
4. Cultivate your relations with cab drivers. One of them adopted and drove us for a week all around the city, even to the Great Wall of China. He sang in the front of the opera to make a point and gave us history lessons in Mandarin Chinese. Of course we did not understand a word, but nevertheless appreciated his efforts.
5. Do not drink Chinese wine ever as it tastes vile. When in China, drink vodka only. It is a worthwhile, wonderful heritage from Soviet comrades. Food is negligible; eat anything in Beijing, and it tastes good. However, stay away from snakes and bugs. They may ruin your digestion and no amount of vodka will cure it.
6. Do not ask for a cab to drive you to a Tiannamen Square if you are in the Tiannamen Square. People will think that you are crazy or possibly drunk (on 56% Chinese wine). It may also drive the cab driver nuts.
7. Crooks are in every part of the world. In China, they pose as "art students" and collect money for scholarships. Their pictures are not what they say; nevertheless, they are still worthy to buy. If you don't mind to be ripped off, this is a pleasant way to do it.
8. Watch out for tailors, especially the one called "Tintin".
9. If you want to shop, you need to learn how to negotiate. Best way is to roar laughing when they present you with the first offer. They will get so shocked that you may get your way.
Frommer says not to pay more than 20% of asked price. However, sometimes even 50% is good.
10. Take a footy massage!
If I was concerned that strangers will read this, I would need to clarify that we are not materialistic, hedonistic, glutinous pigs as it may appear. Our stay in Beijing (Peking) did not consist only of prancing in restaurants in Maxx Mara coats carrying Gucci purses and drinking vodka. (For God's sake, we did not even eat Peking Duck!)
We are cultural beings - we visited the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace, we toured Tiannamen Square (minus the Great pickled Mao), we saw museums and graves of many emperors, and climbed the Great Wall of China. All of it despite my broken knee. The only time I drew a line was when Yvonne wanted to come off the Great Wall on the roller coaster!
Who have ever heard of that ?! Ghinghis Khan would die laughing (or he would take the whole Mongolian army on the roller coaster ride). It sure would change the outcome of history.
We even brought home Chinese art, and although we bought it from crooks, it looks great on our living room walls.
Overall, we had a great time and a wonderful experience. I have to say that Beijing is a safe and friendly city. The cab drivers and the hotel employees are honest, which I could not say for the country of my origin. Sorry! Even villains in Beijing are benign, promoting culture - they sell art, for God's sake! However, I am concerned that Olympics will bring Beijing to another level - not so good for tourists or domestics. Progress is not always the best thing for a country.
PS. On the way back, watch out for female custom agents. They may not understand that your child needs 8 different colors of Puma tennis shoes. They may even object to your Maxx Mara, Prada, Gucci, etc., etc., I hope that one day they will hire sophisticated female custom agents with some sense of fashion...
Until then: Shanghai, the Paris of Orient...
Hope to meet there plenty of Pakistani rug dealers to help us with the hotel.